How to Make a Good Trousers Pattern
Trousers are garments for the lower part of the body, worn on the hips or waist and covering both legs separately. They can be held up by buttons, elastic, a belt or suspenders/braces.
Unlike some other clothing types, trousers are unisex. The term trousers is generally used in British English, and in American English the equivalent is pants.
Waistband
The waistband is the part of a skirt or pants that smoothly encircles your waist. It should fit your natural waistline, and the width can vary according to your preference. A wider band can give a dressier look, while a narrower one may be more comfortable. Depending on the fabric, you can also choose between a separate elastic casing or an integrated one. The latter is usually recommended in commercial patterns, as it’s easier to sew and provides a smoother finish.
When you are ready to add your new waistband, draw a line on the pattern and cut it on the grain (or crossgrain for stretchy fabrics). Make sure to use a wide enough seam allowance for your chosen elastic width, plus a little extra, so that when you fold the elastic over itself, it overlaps the waistband edge by at least half. This reduces bulk and helps the elastic to withstand wear and tear. You can then stitch the long edges together and press it open, or grade the seam for a smoother finish.
Fly
The fly of a trouser is the flap of cloth that covers the fastening method at the front of the trousers, this may be buttons or a zip. The word ‘fly’ is thought to be etymologically related to the protective flaps of cloth on tents and similar items. The fly of dress trouser pants opens on the left so it can line up with blouse openings. Trousers have a fly front opening and it is the male equivalent of a skirt’s zipper, though women’s trousers usually have a left front opening. To make a new fly facing cut a piece of fabric that is the length needed (err on the side of slightly longer) and approximately the width of the removed facing A.
Cuffs
A cuff is a turned back band of fabric around the lower edge of the sleeve or leg. They are often adorned with a decorative border and may be attached by buttons or studs.
On pants and trousers, cuffs add weight to the bottom of the legs and can emphasize the crease line of the trouser. They also help to keep muddy pants from sticking to shoes.
Cuffs can be worn on flat-front trouser or as part of a suit. They are generally less formal than pants without a cuff and should never be worn with pleated trousers.
The cuff can be hand rolled or machine rolled and the size can vary from no cuff at all to a tight roll. Savile Row tailors may refer to a cuffed hem as a turn up or PTU (permanent turn-up) and this style can be a good choice for younger men who are outgrowing their jeans. It is important to note that a cuff can be easily knocked off and it is best not to wear cuffed trousers on a rainy day unless they have been sprayed with waterproofing.
Pockets
Pockets are a practical and stylish addition to any garment. They can be used to store a variety of items such as keys, coins, phones and wallets. They are commonly seen on trousers, jackets, skirts, shirts and dresses. They can also be decorated with various styles and embellishments.
There are a wide variety of pocket styles to choose from. Some are designed to be hidden while others are more decorative and functional. The type of pocket you choose may depend on the occasion, as well as the type of clothing you are wearing.
The simplest type of pocket is the patch pocket. It is a flat pocket that is sewn into the fabric and topstitched in place. Other types of pockets include a slash pocket, which is similar to the front pocket in jeans, but has a slanting opening. A post box pocket combines the style of a slash pocket and a patch pocket and is curved on both sides. A kangaroo pocket is another type of practical patch pocket, with multiple divisions for carrying different items.
Leg Length
A good trouser pattern will have a well-judged leg length that balances the proportions of the body. Too short and the trourser may look sloppy, too long and it will gather fabric at the ankle and start to look bulky.
Choosing the right leg length is difficult, especially when you have to choose between different trouser fabric types and trouser styles. Fuller breaks work best with heavier fabrics like tweed or flannel and can give a more flattering silhouette.
It’s important to use a soft flexible measuring tape when taking your measurements. Slouching or holding the tape hard can affect posture and cause inaccurate results. Having someone help you to measure is helpful too, so they can check your posture and hold the tape in place.
The proper trouser length is determined by the break – the point at which the trousers meet the shoe. Traditional tailoring guidelines dictate that a suit trourst should have one break, with the hems brushing just above the top of the heel. This is a classic look that works well in almost any occasion, but it’s not necessarily right for every man.