How to Tailor a Trouser
A trouser (British English) or pants (American English) is a garment that covers the legs from the waist to the ankles. They are distinguished from skirts and dresses, which cover both legs.
Trousers should sit comfortably on the natural waist of the wearer, not on his hips like jeans do. If the waist of a pair of trousers is too trim, it can cause fabric stress and create unattractive creases.
Waistband
The waistband of a trouser is a narrow band that encircles the waist of a garment. It can be stiffened to add shape or supple to provide flexibility.
Pleats just below the waistband on the front typify many styles of trousers, including suit trousers and khakis. There may be one, two or three pleats, which can face either direction.
Belt loops are a feature that can be added to most trousers. They are usually positioned slightly below the waistband seam, but there was a fashion in the 1930s through 50s to have them positioned higher up on the waistband for a more elegant appearance.
Elastic waistbands are a quick and easy way to repurpose your favourite jeans. The best trouser elastic to use is 1 inch (3 cm) wide, as it tends to be wider than narrower ones and can be more comfortable (see the Roewood Jersey Pencil Skirt project). To make this type of waistband, press a width of fabric twice the width of the elastic (2″ for 3″ wide elastic) and stitch around the edge, leaving a gap at one end for feeding the elastic through.
Front pleats
Pleats are gathered folds of fabric located in the front area of your trouser. They may be forward-facing (pointing towards the fly of your trousers) or reverse-facing (pointing in the direction of the pockets). The majority of trousers feature one pleat, which is usually central and runs down into the center crease; occasionally a second pleat may be added to create a more pronounced style statement.
Aside from adding a bold style statement, pleats are pretty functional as they save your seams from taking on too much stress and they can help to conceal larger areas of the body. Forward-facing pleats are generally preferred as they look narrower and more streamlined than their reverse counterparts and keep your trouser front flatter. You can wear yours high waisted with side adjusters and team them with a light summer blazer for a sophisticated sense of sprezzatura, or just wear them with a polo shirt unbuttoned to show off their versatility.
Back pleats
While pleats are often dismissed as a throwback to an era of ratty shirts and khaki slacks, there are still some men who appreciate them. They aren’t those who are always trying to look like they stepped out of GQ, but rather, men who embrace classical style and understand that pleats can be stylish when properly tailored.
Pleats fold the excess fabric of a trouser to shape its trouser leg and allow for more range of movement. They can be either front facing, as in this example, or backward facing, as many ready-to-wear trousers feature.
The most common form of back pleats is the center box pleat, which you can find on most store-bought button-up dress shirts. The downside of this type is that it can widen the hips, making them less slimming; to counteract this, you want only two or three pleats. In addition, if you decide to get cuffs with your pleated pants, avoid having breaks at the bottom of the legs as this can enforce the image of sloppy clothing.
Cuffs
Cuffs on trousers are a great way to add an extra layer of fabric and help them drape better. This style also helps balance the heft of a double-breasted jacket and accentuates pleats. Cuffs also offer practical benefits, such as adding weight to the bottom of the leg and protecting the trousers from water or mud when walking on unpaved or muddy roads.
Originally, trouser cuffs were hand-rolled by men to avoid muddying their pants while walking on muddy or cobbled streets. Later, the playboy son of Queen Victoria, Edward VII, had cuffs tailored into his pants to avoid getting his legs soaked by rain or mud. Today, most people cuff their trousers as a fashion choice or to create a more casual look.
However, cuffs are usually not worn on trousers that pair with formal outfits like dinner suits or morning coats. They are typically seen on pleated trousers with a plain hem. Savile Row tailors often refer to them as turn-ups or permanent turn-ups (PTUs).
Belt loops
A trouser’s belt loops are used to hold the belt in place around the waist. They are often made of a matching fabric or they may contrast with the rest of the garment. Belt loops are a common part of pants, jeans, dresses and coats. It is easy to add or repair them if needed.
You can sew the belt loops in as you are making the waistband of the trousers. For example, the Burda pattern for these cargo pants suggests sewing the bottom end of the belt loops into that seam and then catching down the top end. This is much easier than hand stitching them afterwards.
Most jeans have five belt loops, while some Wrangler styles have seven belt loops for extra support. However, a bespoke suit should not have belt loops; they spoil the look of a well-fitting suit. Instead, side adjusters are a better choice for this purpose.
Leg openings
The leg opening of a trouser is the width of the leg at its bottom. The leg opening can be flared, straight, or cropped, and can have a turned-up cuff or a plain hem. Trouser-makers often finish the bottom of a leg with hemming or stitching to prevent fraying. They can also add a fly, which covers an opening that allows men to urinate without lowering their trousers.
A narrower leg opening creates a more streamlined look and is better for tall people. Proper Cloth typically recommends a leg opening of about 7.75″ for both formal and casual pants.
To determine your ideal leg opening, lay your pants flat and measure the waist, front rise, thigh, and inseam of each pair. Take a measuring tape and mark the points of your desired taper, being sure to double each measurement for accuracy. Next, pin the pants at the marked area and sew a basting seam (longer stitches than normal) along the proposed seam line. Re-pin and test the pants to ensure they are comfortable to wear.